So, the secret of Lake Como (besides Clooney) is that the Como part is not actually the place to go.  The lake, being shaped sort of like a woman dancing, has many small towns which are fun and beautiful and full of pizza.  And risotto! RISOTTO!

We recommend Bellagio as the place to make your home base.  Located in the middle of the lake, it is convenient to pretty much everything, and has wonderful views of the Lake, as well as some really beautiful gardens in a nearby villa.  Villa!  Hotel Florence is reputed to be one of the best places to stay, but as it was booked, we stayed at the Hotel Metropole.  Which was directly on the water so had amazing views. Wow. Mountains + Lake = AWESOME.  The rooms were on the cosier/older side, but the views cannot be beat!

To eat, ask the hotel for a recommendation — there are several great restaurants both in Bellagio and scattered around in the nearby towns.  And the gelato is still on every corner! (See nearby town in the photo below).

To do, we recommend wandering the town, taking a boat tour, and hopping on and off of the ferries as you go to different towns.  Check out Veranna for another amazing view, the villas, and did we mention the shopping? This is the place for silk scarves!

Finally, the weather is iffy into the fall at the lake, and it is important to be there for at least one sunny day.  We recommend the early summer as a great time to visit.  While there, say hello to Clooney for us!

We just arrived back into town and stumbled into CG Central this morning after a fun trip to Berlin, a fabulous trip, a wonderful trip, and a trip whose only minor flaw was the fact that we had to travel through JFK.

Twice.

And that got us thinking….what is it about JFK that seems to steal people’s souls and slowly suck out the will to live? Have you ever noticed that people in the boarding area seem one step away from full-blown depression? How do they get that way? What exactly does the airport DO to people?

It is hard to put our fingers on one specific thing.  In our particular case, we flew from DC to LaGuardia, and made the cross-town hike over to JFK to connect to our flight to Berlin.  Things were peachy till we walked in the dreaded doors…and found that despite already checking in (and only having carry on bags as every good CityGirl weekender should) there was no hope of casually breezing through security and heading off to meet our plane.

Oh no.  No, for us there was an hour long wait in the dismal and dirty security line, a line with only ONE machine open, and about 35,000 passengers waiting to get through it.  You know, because LARGE INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS LEAVE FROM THIS AIRPORT.  EVERY DAY.  And yet, despite this regularity of schedule resulting in crowds, JFK TSA folks seemed surprised: “People? In line? For planes? What?” and did nothing to expedite us through, nothing like opening the adjacent (empty) security line or anything.

Sigh.

Once through we found ourselves paying small fortunes for basic necessities ($3 for water, $4.14 for milk, and $14 for a small sandwich and bag of chips) as we wandered around trying to find a good spot to plug some electronics in and make a few calls.  In other airports you see, sometimes there are nice areas to power up.  Not so in JFK, where we found ourselves crouched in a hallway, balanced on a radiator as we stretched our blackberry plug into a sketchy socket next to a pillar.  As we stared at the cracked and dirty floor, peeling paint, and the several other depressed-looking people doing the same thing, we felt it was a low moment.

And then we found our flight and were free! And German efficiency met us with a smile and a casual wave through Berlin immigration even though we somehow stumbled through the EU line by mistake.  Yay! JFK was forgotten…

…until we got off our return flight.  And found ourselves, not in immigration as one might expect, oh no. Not for us.  No, we were in a hallway with 3 other international flights because the immigration room was too full.  TOO FULL. Again, this must be a shocking turn of events in an airport where flights arrive from international destinations EVERY DAY.  600 people, in a hallway. Awesome.

And then we got to immigration, and saw a packed room and immediately our jet-lag/crankiness kicked in.  We attempted to talk ourselves up (you’ll make it through! this isn’t hell! probably!) and had almost regained our equilibrium when, as we made it to the front of the line, our immigration officer got up and left. He left. Gone. No word. And we were left standing there with 500 other people wondering: “what the hell just happened” and “if I make a run for it will anyone notice?”

After waiting for 15 minutes and becoming steadily more irritated, there was a small altercation with a Delta representative who told us to “go to the back of the line and wait for another immigration officer” in a room with a line that consisted of 3000 people.  We told her where we thought she could put that idea, and some shouting occurred on both sides.  There may have also been some gesturing and some unkind thoughts, but right as we were about to really lose it, the gods of fortune smiled upon us and our immigration officer reappeared.

As with all of these things, while other people talked to the officer for like 20 minutes and appeared to be giving him their life story and criminal history, he just looked at our passport, stamped it, and we were through….leaving us to wonder, as always: “why does this take SO LONG? and why are there NO BATHROOMS?” and shake our head as we dashed through baggage claim, got swept up in a group of confused Italians with about 300 bags, and waved at the customs guy who very appropriately said: “Welcome to Disney Land.”

This is our sad tale.  But maybe we are wrong about JFK?  What are you travel stories that involve this, or any other airport? Are we right? Wrong? You tells us!

So, we admit that the Icelandic volcano (we refuse to attempt to even try to pronounce the name), kept us trapped in London longer than we intended. But, the good news is that made our experience all the richer for you lovely fellow city girls.  So, if you are looking for a CityBreak, look no further!

Do: Dear God, there is so so much.  For shopping, try one of the Karen Millen stores, conveniently located near Bond Street, Oxford Circus, and Covent Garden.  There are a few few Karen Millen stores in the US, but the prices are better in the UK (even with the exchange). We like her, she gets us.

For sites you must see, go to the Tower of London. Not only is it a historic and AWESOME landmark, you get a chance to flirt with the Yeoman Warders (Beefeaters), better known as retired British military master sargeants.

Do this for several reasons: 1. It is fun and

2. You can get them to let you into the ceremony of the keys.  Which has been going on, without fail, for 700 years.  Basically, you get to see the Tower locked up at night from the inside, and it is both free and VERY VERY cool.  Without said flirting, the only way in is to write in months ahead and somehow have British postage.  Basically, annoying. Also, while at the Tower check out Henry VIII’s armor–wow…the codpiece alone is worth a MUCH closer look. And there are the crown jewels….ahhhhhh.

Also, things that must be done: Afternoon Tea, preferably at the Savoy, though the Ritz or Brown’s will do at a pinch.  So much fun, and also very filling.  Totally worth the expensive price tag.

The theatre! We love Agatha Christie’s The Mousetrap (longest running show of all time), but a visit to the half price ticket booth in Leicester Square can yield fun results. Wicked, Dirty Dancing, or Phantom all come to mind! Also at night there are plenty of fun London Walks, but we love the Jack the Ripper walk because we are old school and like a little mystery/horror/serial killing to put us straight to bed.  Just remember to wrap up warmly at night no matter what time of year. London is COLD.

Also, check out the view at the Tate Modern’s top floor restaurant.  Doesn’t cost you anything to enter (maybe the price of a drink if you stick around at the bar for a bit) and is probably the BEST view of London.  Great for lunch especially on a sunny day. Other good eats include Jaime Oliver’s 15, Brick Street for curry, and any good gastro-pub.  Beef suet, anyone?

Finally, London zone 1 is a smaller area than it appears on the tube map. Much of the city is walkable, and you can see some seriously cool neighborhoods, and parks.  We love the Queen Mary’s Rose Garden in Regent’s Park (the English, they know their roses. Wow!) and St. James Park….so pretty.  Also free! Yay! We could wax on forever about London, but the above are our favorite things to do/see.

For places to stay–it’s crazy. We stayed at the CityInn in Westminster and were pleased with the location (right by parliment) and hotel, but found it to be more of a business hotel (though with a hopping bar scene late at night). Prices right now aren’t SO bad…around $800 roundtrip, depending on what airport you leave from.  But it’s LONDON baby!

(sigh of happiness)

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

So, we recommend vacationing in one of these lovely spots.  And as lovely spots go, St. Lucia is spot (hah!) on!  A volcanic island, it is a quick 5 hour flight from DC or Philly.  Sadly however, the island has few roads and the airport is on the south, whereas most of the hotels are on the north side of the island.  The trip to the hotel can be 1.5 – 2.0 hours.  But, it is worth it!

Stay at a small resort, like the lovely LOVELY TiKaye Village.  You will find a beautiful black sand beach, great beachside snorkling, personal service, and a relaxing vibe.  For fun, we recommend taking one or two (no more than that–the beach is too beautiful to leave) day trips.  Horsebackriding, whale watching, or climbing the Pitons are all highly recommended.  If you feel lazy, there is no need to leave the hotel!  With the most beautiful spa staffed by natives of Bali on site, you can pamper yourself silly, and then continue relax on the beach, at the bar, or on your own personal hammock.

Food is good (better than average for the islands) and the wine menu is one of the best on the island courtesy of a great sommelier.

So basically, what are you waiting for? High season is almost over, and rates will drop. Book tickets now!

Our road trip from Philly to NYC went smoothly with blissfully little traffic and ended as all dream trips to NYC should —-with valet parking.

The hotel was 60 Thompson, a swanky boutique hotel with all the aloof-chic details that somehow let you know that everyone inside is just a little bit cooler than you are. Or maybe that’s all of New York?

The attention to detail there was evident. After a free room upgrade, we noted a vague and mildy annoying smoke smell in our room. A gentle call to the front desk resulted in a staff member knocking at the door with a new room key in a matter of minutes. My GC was very disappointed later when we learned that the uber-swanky Thom Bar was closed for a private party but we did manage to sneak in a few drinks before they shut down. I had something with lemongrass and lime which sounded good in theory but was way too sour. Next time I will stick with wine. If you’re paying $15 dollars a drink (ok, well I wasn’t paying but that’s not the point), you might as well get something reliable.

After that, we met up with some college friends-turned-Manhattanites for dinner at Lupa’s. My GC was abuzz with excitement about their signature dish which had been featured on the Food Network (or Iron Chef or something like that) and involved a cracked egg over a large ravioli. Myself, being a fan of both ravioli and eggs, I was also pretty curious.

Unfortunately our experience at Lupa’s left us underimpressed, egg-less, and pretty drunk. The place is tiny, cramped, loud and frenetic. We crammed into the bar while waiting for our table and sipped (ok, gulped) wine in between purse slaps and “excuse me”s of the passerbys and waiters continuously trying to get around us.

When we finally got a table, it was a relief to be seated in a corner so that we weren’t in the direct line of traffic. But the good feeling ended too soon when the waiter told us that there was no such egg and ravioli plate featured on the menu (or apparently available to those who just happened to ask nicely). Nevermind that it’s one of the main photos on the restaurant’s website.

*sigh*

Nonetheless, we ate well so that at least a little of the alcohol could be soaked up by pasta. The pasta was soft and delicious but no match for our unfulfilled expectations. I’m thinking next time we’ll avoid famous chefs and maybe just take our chances with something unknown.

We capped off the weekend with breakfast at the hotel restaurant, Kittichai, which was delightful. Then we strolled through SoHo, grabbed a forever-memorable cafe mocha (perfect coffee to chocolate ratio that wasn’t too sweet) at a no-name cafe and made the long, relaxing drive back down the highway.

Hotel 60 Thompson

Lupa Osteria Romana

Let me speak for Philadelphians when I tell you that we have a love-hate relationship with New York. In fact, this turf battle goes all the way back to the American revolution when Philly and NYC argued over being the nation’s capital (until we all agreed to let the Southerners create Washington, D.C. and we all see how well THAT worked out). Ever since then, we’ve been the kid brother to our big glamorous neighbors north and south. And we have Rocky. So there.

Consequently, New York has never had the hold on us that it does for the rest of the country. Why? Because it’s so much LIKE us. And most of the best stuff is accessible in Philly anyway. Fabulous chefs, theater, music productions, art exhibits? It all spills over. So why would we battle traffic to head into a city that’s bigger, noisier, and more expensive?

Because we can.

That, and the fact that all of us women secretly want to walk in the shoes of Carrie Bradshaw.

Whenever I make a trip up to NYC, I notice that my Philly friends shrug and my friends from elsewhere coo and twitch with envy. And sometimes that cooing and twitching reaction is just enough to convince me that being in striking distance of the Big Apple IS kinda cool…

And men, if you are looking for a “sweep her off her feet” kind of date, read on and take notes.

So this month when I got an invitation to do a Friday night in SOHO without having to drive, make reservations, or plan a thing —-”yes” was an easy answer. My date picked me up at my place of business and when I popped outside to see the man, his luxury car, and a steaming Starbucks latte waiting for me in the cupholder —well, my feet were already swept.

Once inside the car, I received a set of restaurant reviews with instructions to choose one. He’d made reservations at all 3 and would cancel the two I didn’t select! People, this is the stuff of dreams and cheesy TV shows!

My choices were:

1. Mesa Grille: A Bobby Flay restaurant

2. Lupa Osteria Romana: A Mario Batali restaurant

3. And a third one that with funky themed decor whose name I forget.

Tune in tomorrow to hear which one I chose, which hotel my date surprised me with, and the crazy shenanigans that ensued…

(www.napavalleyballoons.com)

It is COLD here on the East Coast (or EC, like OC, but you know…for East? Hmmm…maybe I’m not onto anything with this acronym) and therefore, it is time to go somewhere slightly SLIGHTLY warmer.  For us, we recommend planning a trip in the next couple of months to Napa Valley.  It’s beautiful, there is wine, it is beautiful, and there is wine.  Seems like a win-win, no?

To start, there is only one place you should stay:  The Arbor View. Wow. WOW.  Located less than a mile outside of “downtown” Napa proper, the Arbor View is a gorgeous bed and breakfast chock full of amenities.  Recently completely renovated, the rooms are gorgeous and feature comfy beds, cool furniture, and even fireplaces! (Soooo nice on a cold Napa night…).  The bathrooms were lovely, and several of the rooms even have a jacuzzi.  We are fans!! In addition, breakfast was wonderful, snacks seemed to be available at all hours (especially chocolate), and the owners will make recommendations for sight-seeing and set everything up to boot (including in room massage for a steal!).

For wine-tasting start in Napa itself.  The Arbor View will provide you with discounts at several of the wineries, and the bonus is that you can walk to almost any of them.  We really liked Ceja Vineyards (cool relaxed vibe) and the Wineries of Napa Valley (some of the best sweet wine that we have tasted. Also, we love places that do a sweet wine flight).  You have to pay $10-$20 for the tastings depending on where you go (bummer) but the pours tend to be large (yay!).  And the advantage is that you can walk everywhere, including home.  Which you may find yourself stumbling to after your third tasting!

Actual vineyards abound, and you can pretty much throw a rock and hit one so let the world (and your B & B) be your guide and your oyster.  Our recommendation for a vineyard not to miss is Mumm.  It focuses on champagne, and while the tasting was expensive, they pour you full glasses of everything and the deck overlooking the mountains is BEAUTIFUL.  Absolutely gorgeous.

For food there are tons of restaurants in downtown Napa.  Celadon is great, and you won’t go wrong at Zuzu.  But for those who are culinary fiends, French Laundry is THE place to go.  Dinner will cost you $600+ for 2, but the 13+ courses are all a delight, as is the atmosphere and the garden.  Plus, eating at one of the top restaurants in the entire world is no bad thing, right?

Finally, looking for something else to do besides drink and eat? Well, take a balloon ride and see the whole valley! Nothing beats a sunrise view of a gorgeous area in our book, so make sure you hit that.  Happy Wine Tasting!!

(photo courtesy of SF Brit on Flickr)

We had some misgivings about going to the west coast.  We are, after all, hardened east coast veterans with a deep suspicion of people who live on the beach in temperate weather all year round.  But then, we arrived in San Franciso and fell in love (though not with the weather—it is COLD there!).  An eclectic, yet elegant city with a cool vibe, a walkable (if uphill) cityplan, and amazing views of the bay? Yes, we are fans!

For an upscale hotel with great views of Union Square, the Westin St. Francis is your man.  But WARNING: do not confuse this beautiful hotel with its less fun sister, the Westin Market Street, located only a few blocks away.  Where the Westin St. Francis features large rooms and a beautiful lobby, the one on market street features modern (re: small and dark) rooms with standard hotel décor.  Boo we say. BOO!

For fine dining, we recommend Gary Danko as a blissful, awesome and…ok, amazingly romantic experience.  Not only is the food wonderful and the service exquisite, the people at Gary Danko really seem to be having fun, and we appreciate that! Also, it has the nicest bathroom we have seen, so nice we are giving it a 9.5 out of 10 (it loses half a point for being very very orange). For reasonably priced French food (YUM) in cool parisian-like alleys, we found both Café Bastille and Café Claude to be outstanding.  The French onion soup at Café Claude especially deserves a mention, and we usually don’t even LIKE French onion soup! And, for the times when comfort food is a must, In- N- Out Burger and the chowder from any cart in Fisherman’s Wharf deserves a bravo.

For fun, San Francisco is a walkable (if fierce calf-workout) city.  We recommend starting your day with a trip to Alcatraz, where the top notch audio tour is done by former prison guards and prisoners, and the view of the city from behind the walls of Alcatraz is priceless…as is the knowledge that you can shortly walk out!  Following Alcatraz, a stroll through Chinatown with a stop at a reflexology shop is must. Finish it all up with a trolley car ride (the downhill parts are totally fun…and not for the faint of heart).

Finally, to end your trip make sure to visit Top of the Mark, located in the Intercontinental Hotel.  It has the best views of the City and the Bay, as well as an amazingly long cocktail list and live jazz music on weekend nights.  Our only word to the wise—visit San Francisco in the fall, when locals claim it is actually warm!

Stay at the Astor, two blocks off the beach front with a fun Art Deco feel, or closer at Hotel Victor if you want to be on the beach.  Restaurants and fun times abound.  On Ocean Drive, may we recommend A Fish called Avalon (for classy fish), or further off the beaten path, Soprano’s for Italian/Fish.  Have your concierge call the complimentary limo that Soprano’s provides for its customers if you want to arrive in style.  Drinks are large EVERYWHERE, and most places on Ocean Drive have “happy hour” (read: all night) specials on either drinks or food.  For shopping, Stage on Lincoln Road Promenade is very cool, and there are plenty of “tight dress/no pants” shops wherever you look.  Finally, for a “hot women and ripped men dancing on stage” situation to class up your night, we humbly recommend Mangos.  Or, just sip your (gigantic) drink and take in the often hilariously dressed foot traffic. Dress is Miami casual, which means anything from a swimsuit and heels, to your most formal flip flops and t-shirt worn as a dress.  We love a place that allows just a towel as day wear!

Cost:
Flight: $200 (check out kayak.com or American Airlines)
Hotel: $190 for 2 nights (third night often free!) depending on the time of year
Food: Expensive, but good.  Enjoy!